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Bespoke. An exclusively artisan process.

Fotografi: Luca Merli / Giuseppe Morales

Content editor: Lino Cannavacciuolo

Bespoke is an extremely sophisticated artisan process that is reiterated, shirt after shirt, through all the requisite manual procedures.

It all begins with the time-old ritual of taking the measurements, an opportunity to relish the tailor’s premises, to be savoured just like a good Neapolitan coffee at the bar. It initiates a dialogue between the customer and the tailor, it is a way of meeting, evaluating, sharing and understanding each other. The tailor’s main skill called into action at this stage lies not the cutting or sewing, but in his ability to listen. Because there is no worse “tailor” than one who does not want to hear.

A perfect fit must be the prerequisite of each made-to-measure shirt, which is why apart from sizing-up the customer’s physical measurements it is essential that the tailor also comprehends and respects his wishes and personal taste.

After taking the measurements the tailor creates a toile and schedules the first fitting. During this fitting, the client will try on the toile that has been already cut exactly to his measurements, not a standard size. If the fit is not satisfactory a new toile is created followed by a second fitting. If, however, the measurements are precise then the assemblage of the shirt commences. This method ensures a shirt with a perfect fit because it is accurately designed on the customer’s own measurements.

Before cutting, the fabric is washed at 30º/40º C to prevent shrinkage. It is then dried and ironed ready for the cutting process which is exactingly carried out manually with the exclusive use of scissors. Only a hand-cut fabric can guarantee perfection of shape and the best fit. During the cutting process the pattern and design of the fabric must be taken into account, so that all the stripes or pattern repeats match up perfectly on the completed garment.

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